Écrans solaires coréens : pourquoi leur texture a changé notre rapport au SPF

Korean sunscreens: why their texture changed our relationship with SPF

L'équipe YUJA

Key takeaways

  • The strength of Korean sunscreens is their texture: light, invisible, easy to wear every day.
  • SPF measures protection against UVB; PA (from PA+ to PA++++) measures protection against UVA, which drive skin ageing.
  • Most people apply two to four times too little: allow about two finger lengths for the face.

For a long time, sunscreen had a reputation for being heavy, leaving a white cast and feeling uncomfortable under makeup. It was not so much sun protection itself that changed this perception, but the work Korean skincare did on texture.

The historical problem with sunscreens

Mineral filters left a visible white cast on many skin tones. Chemical filters, more transparent, were often associated with greasy or sticky textures. Both flaws led some people to skip this step, especially for daily use.

The Korean innovation: making texture a central criterion

The Korean industry treated texture as being as important as UV protection. Very light fluids, essence formats, sticks, matte or dewy finishes suited to each skin type: this variety let everyone find a format compatible with real daily use, not just on holiday.

SPF, PA++++: reading the label

  • SPF measures protection against UVB, which cause sunburn. An SPF 50 filters about 98% of UVB, under test conditions.
  • PA, a system originating in Japan and widely used in Korea, measures protection against UVA, which penetrate deeper and play a major role in skin ageing and dark spots. It ranges from PA+ to PA++++, the highest level.
  • In Europe, the "UVA" logo in a circle guarantees that UVA protection reaches at least one third of the SPF shown.

Quantity: the most common mistake

SPF values are measured with 2 mg of product per cm² of skin. In real life, most people apply two to four times less, which greatly reduces the protection they actually get. For the face and neck, allow about two finger lengths of cream, or a quarter of a teaspoon. Reapply every two hours during prolonged exposure, and after swimming or heavy sweating.

Which Korean sunscreen for which skin type

Why SPF is the one non-negotiable step

Of all skincare steps, daily sun protection is the best documented for preventing premature skin ageing and dark spots. In a trial carried out in Australia over more than four years, participants who applied sunscreen every day showed fewer signs of skin ageing than those who used it as they pleased. No serum, however effective, makes up for skipping this step.

The success of Korean sunscreens is therefore not down to a miracle formula, but to patient work on what ultimately decides whether a product is actually used: how its texture feels every day.

Frequently asked questions

Do I need sunscreen in winter or on cloudy days?

Yes. UVA rays pass through clouds and are present all year round, even through a window.

Is a foundation with SPF enough?

Rarely: nobody applies enough of it to reach the SPF shown. It complements sunscreen; it does not replace it.

Are Korean sunscreens allowed in Europe?

Those sold in Europe must comply with the European cosmetics regulation, which governs, among other things, which filters are allowed and at what concentration.

Read also: Skin ageing: focusing on prevention rather than correction · Seasonal routine: what really changes between summer and winter

Sources

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