Double cleansing: essential ritual or unnecessary step?

Key takeaways

• Double cleansing combines an oil or balm, then a water-based cleanser.
• It is useful in the evening if you wear makeup, water-resistant sunscreen or have spent the day in the city.
• Without makeup and with a light sunscreen, one gentle cleanser is usually enough.

Double cleansing, popularized by the Korean routine, consists of combining an oil-based cleanser followed by a water-based cleanser. Presented as an essential step, it deserves to be put into perspective according to the skin type and the makeup worn.

Why this method emerged

The first cleanser, oil-based, dissolves sebum, waterproof makeup, and sunscreen, substances that water alone does not remove well. The second cleanser, water-based, removes the remaining residue and sweat. The initial goal was to prevent sunscreen or residual makeup from remaining trapped under the skincare applied afterward.

When it is truly useful

Double cleansing makes perfect sense in the case of makeup, water-resistant sunscreen, or heavy exposure to urban pollution during the day. In these situations, a water-based cleanser alone often leaves residue, even when the skin feels clean to the touch.

When it becomes superfluous

On makeup-free skin, with a light sunscreen or a day spent indoors, a gentle water-based cleanser is generally sufficient. Systematically adding an oil-based step in this case brings no additional benefit and can, on already weakened skin, unnecessarily lengthen a routine without any real gain.

The real criterion: the result, not the number of steps

The best indicator remains simple: after cleansing, the skin should be clean, without feeling tight or remaining greasy. If a single cleanser achieves this, adding an extra step is more of a habit than a necessity.

Which product to choose

• Cleansing oil, fluid and easy to rinse: the Heartleaf Pore Control Cleansing Oil by Anua.
• Cleansing balm, more comfortable for dry skin: the Radiance Cleansing Balm by Beauty of Joseon.
• Gentle water-based cleanser, as a second step or on its own in the morning: the Low-pH Good Morning Gel Cleanser by Cosrx.

Double cleansing is therefore neither a dogma nor a myth: it is a tool, reserved for situations where a water-based cleanser alone shows its limits.

Read also: The 10-step Korean routine: the myth and what really matters · The skin microbiome, your skin's forgotten ally

Sources

• Draelos ZD. The science behind skin care: Cleansers. J Cosmet Dermatol, 2018. doi:10.1111/jocd.12469
• Mukhopadhyay P. Cleansers and their role in various dermatological disorders. Indian J Dermatol, 2011. doi:10.4103/0019-5154.77542